- November 11, 2018 at 10:00 pm #7889
A thread on outing the E rider 18 together.
After putting this together I advise LET THEM DO IT, IT’S 395 WELL SPENT
For those like me that want to save money or have the time to spend below and in following posts will be a guide to putting the bike together.
The box arrived at 9am very good service by the courier, I opened the top of the box removed the battery for charging took the front wheel out to study then let the rest sit in my garage till the weekend when I could spend as much time on it.
I charged the battery that night. I then went searching for places to repair the tyre’s when the time came, my local Tanvic can do this for £15 the same price when I need to replace the tyre.
Sunday came and I started to build up the bike.
First thing they say to fit is the twin leg stand this ma prove more of a problem than it first looks. First remove the 2 bolts that the stand attach to, they come with bushes for the legs on the bolts, mine did not fit so I took a round file to the holes in The stand and carefully filed till it did fit getting the bolts to line up for screwing on was a fiddle keep trying and if it feels tight you probably have cross threaded it loosen off and try again the the side cowls covering the rear axel need to be moved out of the way to do this. I still have to fit the spring when I work out a way to fit the spring I will edit this post.
Fitting the handlebars to the steering tube was a pig to do first you remove the cowling from the front above the lights the 2 screws to remove are just above the key hole and the “cup holder” removing the screws is not enough you have to work out the direction to take it off this is pulling the cowl back and up standing in front of the bike. Once the cowl is off loosely put the screws back onto the cowl so as to not loose them and put the cowl in a safe place.
You can now see the mess of wires that has been hidden under the cowl and how the fix the steering tube together, first the locking bolt must be removed do this with great care get a ring spanner and fit it over the nut on the rear side of the steering tube with fingers remove bolt with shaped collet keeping the nut on the ring spanner then lift out the spanner and nut as one, screw together and put to one side.
You will find removal of the front cowl is not enough the cowl (in 2 parts) surounding the handlebars must be removed, there are 4 screws to remove keep them handy then carefully pull the front cowling off it will prove to be awkward and you will think you have missed a screw the top side of the 2 halves are just clicked together so need pulling apart with care. Once off move out of the way you will then find 2 screws under the handlebars holding the rear cowl onto the bars once removed the cowl is free to move out of the way to get to the bolt that was removed, the cowl cannot be taken off as there are loads of wires attached to it.
Put the handlebar onto the steering tube and line up the holes the locking bolt is to go through, remove the nut push the bolt throuh the hole and then carefully line up the nut on the other side. To tighten up this bolt best use a socket set with an extension fitted this way you will be able to get the nut a lot tighter, then remove ring spanner from back.
Screw the rear cowl of the handlebars back in place then put back the front cowl of the handlebars if screws were stoared in holes remove first the top of the cowl is carefully clipped to the rear cowl making sure to line every thing up carefully refit the 4 screws, replace the front cowl just above the lights and screw in place. In the Next post’s a step by step guide to fitting any part I found difficulty with.
November 11, 2018 at 10:14 pm #7890
- This topic was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by kendrick.
So glad I paid e rider to fit my 18
Gave me a headache just reading itNovember 11, 2018 at 10:55 pm #7892
Read on to see more of the problems I faced getting the bike up and running.
I’ve had enough in the mechanical workshop, time to change to the electronics workshop. The extension charging lead is proving very useful l have a small emergency battery pack that I use with my Erider 15 cutting and splicing the cable has made my emergency battery pack work with the Erider 18, it should giv me an extra 5 miles to get to a charging point.
KendrickNovember 12, 2018 at 11:33 am #7894
Oof, thanks for posting this. I was having trouble putting the handlebars on, did exactly as you said removing the screws from the front panel but couldn’t figure out how to pull the bloody thing off! I’ll go back and keep trying, and hopefully get this up and running soon 🙂November 12, 2018 at 12:50 pm #7895
It’s the top join that’s the problem carefully pull apart when you see the 2 cowls part you know you are getting there, I advise getting a spare connecting bolt size is M10 about 50mm long you may find it easier to use as a standard bolt has a coarse thread, you will need the shaped collet.
Ask me and ill see if i can do videos of the hard parts of how I put the bike together.
November 13, 2018 at 12:58 pm #7898
- This reply was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by kendrick.
If you look on youtube you will find tutorials on how to easily fit stand springs without skinning your knuckles, it is a very simple trick using some grips and a screwdriver.November 13, 2018 at 1:04 pm #7899
Link is here
November 13, 2018 at 2:02 pm #7901
- This reply was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by Paul IOM.
thanks for the tip paul never thought to try youtube for something like that!
kendrickNovember 13, 2018 at 7:08 pm #7904
A PRE-RIDE REVIEW
The disk brakes are a BIG improvement you only have to pull gently on the levers compared to the 15 where you really have to pull.it was one of the reasons I decided to upgrade.
Lights indicators this time at the back a lot more visible and orange instead of red, rear light is solid not flashing, in the front both dipped and full, be interesting to see what car drivers think of the lighting.
The colour display is nice easy to see at night yet to check during the display, still don’t like the fact that there is only km/h available.
There is one major problem I do have the switches on the handlebars are in my view just in the wrong place. on the 15 there were only switches on the left side, lights indicators and horn. they were easy to get to with your thumb and you could twist them round to find the ideal angle for you. On the 18 the switches are on both sides and not in easy reach of the thumb vital if you want to remember to indicate, the horn was on both sides and all around the light switch on the left and dip main on the right I have a horrible feeling I am going to be beeping my horn when I switch on the lights or change from dip to main, gloves will make this worse. I’ll see how i get on with them but i will probably change to some after market motorbike switches.
I ride an electric bike because I have epilepsy, because of this I also use a motorbike helmet not a cycle helmet the back box that comes with the 18 is not big enough so as with the 15 I am putting on a motorbike back box, with the 15 I had to make modifications to the side handles on the 18 this will not be needed.
Under the seat on the 15 was quite a bit of space plenty of room for a lock, chain, electric pump and waterproofs. the 18 has a lot less room there as the battery goes there, what is left will easily hold a lock and chain and either waterproofs or an electric pump.
my next thing is to have a ride and see how it rides in comparison to the 15.
kendrickNovember 13, 2018 at 11:02 pm #7905
I have now done 3000 kilometres on my 18 in just under 3 months
The charging takes a little longer than advertised, about 10 hours usually
Most I’ve done is 48 on a single charge,same as you I wish the dash showed mph
Had to tighten the chain early on,I’m not a mechanic so had to have it done for me
Other than that it works very well,it only shows 4 green lights the bottom one stays red
Is this normal
You seem mechanically minded , how long will the battery last ,I hope about 800 charges
Maybe a couple of years
Hope that thay have more in stock. It’s nice following your adventures on your 18 , hope to here from you soonNovember 13, 2018 at 11:03 pm #7906
Sorry that should have been 6 months sorryNovember 14, 2018 at 2:28 pm #7908
You seem to be doing well with your 18.
very few things are as advertised charging will always take longer distance on one charge will never be what is claimed.
On my 15 there is a voltage number not just a symbol, now my 15 is on a second battery pack I had a pack with one more cell so used that and it’s 5A charger, fully charged the voltage reads 59v, after a 10 mile ride I would put it on charge for an hour. The charger would still be charging but the voltage would be 59v, the charger would still take an hour or more to finish and go green this extra time is the balancing period done by the internal BMS. That extra balancing time does not require the charger.
You don’t have a volt meter on the bike but you could easily fit one to the charging cable, the item to buy is in this link https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-180a-watt-meter-and-power-analyzer.html
If you still have the extention cable you can use the 2 ends to make the connections for the meter above if not use ebay.
The meter fits between the charger and the socket under the seat, this will actually give you a lot of information besides the voltage.
These external modifications can’t void your warranty as far as I can think what it will do is give you a bit more information about what is happening when you are charging.
im working on some modifications that may well affect the warranty unless I can get them to have the addon made official, the display box will fit perfectly either to the left or right of the display already there.November 27, 2018 at 8:43 am #7944
Regarding charging time in fairness the specification does state 8-10 hours to charge from flat. Most people charge overnight for use the following day so this is not a problem. However for those that need a faster charging time we are now stocking some fast chargers which can be purchased on the Accessories page of our website. These will more than half the charging time.November 28, 2018 at 4:11 pm #7972
Steven just reread your post you asked about the battery lasting longer, one of the best ways to do this is to not charge the battery up to its full charge or run the battery flat.
As far as the second problem is concerned I can’t help you yet, for the first putting a device inline between the charger and the battery to cut the voltage prior to reaching full voltage would not be hard. inside the battery must be a battery management system to protect the pack and balance the cells in the pack, as I am unwilling to open up the battery pack so I cannot confirm this I’m sure that Ken would be able to.
Some information on how to increase battery life as it pertains to maximum charge, each cell in the battery pack at full voltage is 4.2v this battery has 13 cells one after the other making a total voltage of 54.6, reducing the maximum voltage to 4.1v will increase the battery pack lifetime dramatically not going below 3.3v to 3.5v will also have large battery life extension. this will reduce the distance you can ride on one charge but not by much maybee 1 KM.
the saving will be dramatic i can quite easily see a new battery pack from Erider costing close to £600.
KendrickNovember 28, 2018 at 6:38 pm #7973
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