December 4, 2016 at 8:47 pm #3217
The original E-Rider Model 30 was always going to be a hard act to follow, I know this because in just over 12 months I did over 2000 happy kilometres on mine, and I was impressed enough to be one of the first on the list for the new model once it was announced, the idea being to keep the old model as a spare to loan to friends.
Several improvements have been made to the latest version, named the Model 30 City, these have no doubt come about as a result of the continuing product development ethos of the Chinese manufacturer, coupled with their willingness to act upon feedback from current owners such as myself.
Starting with the unboxing and assembly, it is immediately apparent upon unwrapping the endless metres of protective bubble wrap, and laying out the various parts, that the general build quality of the bike has improved in several area’s, along with the use of higher spec components.
On completion of the build, which took around an hour, during which time I had the battery on charge to top up its partial transit charge, I cleared the packaging away, wheeled it out of the garage, grabbed my helmet and hopped aboard.
The first thing you notice is that the headlight comes on once the ignition is switched on, regardless of switch position, I thought I had a fault, but a quick bit of research told me this is a safety feature which I believe is now becoming law for all powered two wheelers in some countries, and even though this is not the case in the UK it is still common sense to have lights on during the day, and something I have always done in the interests of self preservation.
On the subject of lights, I found the lights on the old model to be well up to the job and had no complaints, but these have now been upgraded further to LED on the ‘City’ which gives an even better beam, and will be generally more efficient.
Out on the road, several improvements are immediately apparent, and they more than justify the extra cost of the ‘City’ over the previous model, for example the first thing I noticed was the absence of that initial snatch when moving off from a standstill, a feature on many electric scooters, but throttle control is now perfectly linear right off the bottom, surefire evidence of a more expensive control unit, which is handling the take off with perfect smoothness.
The handling is also much improved, the larger tyres, (3.50-10, up from 300-10 on the old model) means a more sure-footed feel, and the constant twitchiness, and General nervousness when crossing white lines and Tarmac over-banding, which was apparent on the old model, has now gone, the front and rear suspension, although still a little under-damped, feels more compliant on our less than perfect roads.
The weight saving of some 30kg over the old model, mainly due to the use of Lithium-Ion batteries, can really be felt, making the bike much more sprightly away from road junctions and traffic lights, and the upgrade to a front hydraulic disc brake is also welcome addition, which coupled with the larger tyre footprint and lighter weight, make emergency stops a much more controllable event. Whilst the drum brakes on the old model were adequate, an emergency stop from 30mph was always a hair raising experience, particularly given its extra weight too, and all electric vehicles need good brakes, as you find yourself continually avoiding dopey pedestrians who don’t hear you coming and simply wonder across the road without looking!!
The regenerative braking, a feature which comes in to play automatically when either brake is operated, is also far smoother on the new model, with none of that annoying ‘shunting’ at low speeds which always made me feel like a novice as I lurched up to junctions whilst gently touching the brakes on the old bike, this again is a sign of money being invested in high quality control unit components.
Ok, the important bits, how fast does it go? and how far does it go? well I can’t answer the latter yet as I’ve only had it for 2 days and most trips have been around town, but on the old model I never managed less than 25 miles, and I’m talking here about real world miles, flat out, with plenty of hills thrown in, and my 6ft frame in the wind! so with the weight loss and extra efficiency of the Lithium batteries I am hoping to see a realistic range of around 35 miles under the same arduous ‘don’t spare the horses’ conditions, and on the flat, with a gentle right wrist probably another 10 -15 miles on top of that.
Speed wise, the new model has an interesting addition of a button on the right hand handlebar next to your thumb, with a traffic light display of LED lights, the default setting when you switch on, is always amber, tapping the button then flicks through the 3 settings, and it seems from my experiments that green gives 30mph, dabbing the button to amber see’s an increase to around 33mph, and red gives another little nudge up to around 36mph, which is a welcome bit of extra punch when needed to deal with intimidating traffic conditions, those times in heavy traffic when you feel like you are getting in the way at 30mph.
Interestingly, on my first ride, the bike wouldn’t exceed 15mph, and the button did nothing other than change the light colour, so I returned to my garage for a head scratch and then I noticed a thin white wire poking out of the rear panel just below the seat, where the rear rack mount goes through the panel, and wondered why the manufacturer would leave this poking out, so I pulled the little plug connector apart and went out again, bingo, full power!! this must be a restrictor for another country.
A nice touch is the removable battery pack, which means you can either charge in situ like the old model, or in around 10 seconds you can unplug and lift the battery pack out, and with its neat little carry handle, take it with you, handy for those owners who don’t have a garage at home, or who want to re-charge at work, for example in the office during the day.
So, do I miss anything about the old model? yes actually I do, I miss one thing, for some odd reason there is no odometer on the speedo!! something which I always used to keep an eye on in relation to range, but in summary, the Model 30 City is definitely worth the extra money, and this is exactly the bike I would have built myself, if given a free hand with the old model at the factory, so well done E-Rider, you have a winner here!!December 5, 2016 at 7:36 pm #3225
Thanks for an in depth review. I will be very interested to see what sort of range you are getting.
We have an e30 at the moment which, to be honest, has been a little disappointing in range. I am only getting around 14.5 miles on a FULL charge. Any ideas why this may be?
Look forward to your updates.December 5, 2016 at 11:10 pm #3226
Hi Dominic, you should be getting a lot more than 14.5 miles, even after a year of use on the old model 30, I am still getting over 20 miles of flat out riding including hills.
Things I would check are –
Voltage when fully charged using a meter across the charge socket pins behind the seat, you should see at least 60v.
Voltage of each individual battery across its terminals, each battery should be at least 12v.
All the battery terminals are tight.
The tyre pressures are at least 30psi.
The wheels spin freely.
If battery voltages are down, speak to Ken as I’m sure there is a 12 month warranty on the batteries.
The batteries do get a little tired after 12 months but should still be giving you a lot more mileage than you are getting.
Range is of course dependant on many factors, how many hills you go up, how much you weigh, headwinds, even cold temperatures affect the range on lead acid batteries.
Hope this helpsDecember 8, 2016 at 2:22 pm #3228
Very many thanks for this – I will do the checks you suggest.
How do you get to the battery terminals behind the seat? (Individually they read OK, I believe)
I can not see an obvious way to remove the black seat housing – just the two screws at the front, but I am sure there much be more?
I will double check the tyres, and they do spin freely.
I did not think the real wheel was regenerative, as it seems to be a drum break – is it really?
My route is reasonably hilly – as you can see from the image
Weight, around 105kg, need to work on that 🙂
Many thanks for sharing your expertise
Attachments:December 8, 2016 at 3:08 pm #3230
After having spent some time with the bike and removing the seat to see the wiring – I understand where you mean to check the battery terminals behind the seat – the socket where you plug it in – connecting to the left and right ones gives me the voltage overall…
And also saw that removing the seat housing is the two bolts at front and 2 at rear (where the seat latches)
Tyres are good – will test again.
DominicDecember 8, 2016 at 5:49 pm #3232
Hi Dominic, I should have explained better, yes it’s the charge plug pins behind the seat, you should be seeing over 60v there, and on each individual battery you should be seeing over 12v, from memory mine is between 12.5 and around 12.8 per battery.
Looking at your terrain map, and given that you are carrying 25kg more than me, Imwould say your mileage isn’t far out if you made the 17.5 mile trip with over 600ft of elevation thrown in.
Regarding the re-gen braking, have you noticed when you touch either brake enough to activate the brake light switch you also hear a light ‘growl’ from the motor, and feel the bike slowing? mine certainly does although the manufacturer claimed it didn’t have re-gen braking, but mine certainly does, as you can feel and hear it, I actually disconnected the rear brake light switch for a while as the re-gen was causing the bike to lurch/shunt at low speeds when braking, as it clicks in and out, so by disconnecting the rear brake light switch I could use the rear brake for the last few yards when stopping and avoid bringing the re-gen into play and the lurching/shunting.
Re-gen braking works by turning the drive motor into a generator when slowing down, hence it converts braking energy which would usually be wasted as heat, into a bit of electricity back into the battery, and resistance from the generation gives some braking effect to, so it’s a win win situation, most electric vehicles have had it for years.December 9, 2016 at 8:39 pm #3241
Will keep an ear out for that regen and see if I can pick it up…
Yes I am a keen follower of electric vehicles, we have a reservation in on a Tesla 3 series – roll on 2018!December 9, 2016 at 9:55 pm #3242
Thanks for that information.
I wondered why my erider 30 city was so slow. I’ve disconnected the wire and we’ll see what happens next.
Also will be good to see if those lights work.February 9, 2017 at 5:41 pm #3390
I am also experiencing a slow e rider 30 managing only 18mph on a flat.
I understand this may be due to a white wire. With regards to the little ‘white wire’ what exactly needs to be done to the black plug connector the wire is attached to? Anany details are greatly appreciated!! I have attached a photo of the wire.
Attachments:February 9, 2017 at 5:46 pm #3392
The black plug is a push fit connector.
Just pull it apart and everything should be fine.
KenFebruary 13, 2017 at 11:16 am #3406
Hi Ken , plug has been pulled apart. Bike now runs perfectly. Couldn’t be happier, thank you!February 24, 2017 at 4:15 pm #3503
Hi can I jump in on this post, The white wire you are talking about, where do I find it, is it under the seat, or how do I find it?February 25, 2017 at 8:30 am #3504
The cable is at the point where the left section of the rear frame disappears into the shell of the bike. If it is not immediately accessible to pull out insert a pencil into the gap and pull it through. Then pull apart the push fit connector.
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