August 5, 2018 at 2:58 pm #6649
When I have the bike on the road or on its stand, as I turn the throttle the back wheel moves as expected but appears to make a noise as if it’s restricted. Like as if it’s rubbing on something. I was thinking it may need to wd40 but didn’t know where would be sensible to put the oil?
Also my odometer has stopped working. Should it be as simple as making sure the cable underneath it is correctly connected?
TomAugust 5, 2018 at 3:35 pm #6650
Regarding the odometer, I just retightened the cable that goes into it and that didn’t make a difference.August 5, 2018 at 7:47 pm #6652
Turn the wheel by hand, and see if you can locate the noise/tight spot that way.
Regarding the odometer, contact e-rider and they should be able to help under the warranty.August 6, 2018 at 2:09 am #6653
Thanks for the response Paul.
I am out of warranty as I’ve had the bike around 3 years.
What happens when I find the spot where the wheel is making the noise?August 6, 2018 at 7:30 am #6654
I wouldnt worry about the odometer, my model 30 city doesnt have one as standard.
If you can locate the noise by turning the wheel by hand, you should then be able to deal with it, either by moving or adjusting whatever is rubbing, or lubricating whatever is squeaking.
What model is it?August 6, 2018 at 2:01 pm #6658
It’s the original model 30. But im not sure I can ignore the odometer as it’s directly related to the speedo which isn’t working either.
The back wheel of the original is a fixed secure unit to the remainder of the bike and there doesn’t appear to be anywhere to lubricate…August 6, 2018 at 3:00 pm #6659
Ok, turn the wheel by hand, and if you cannot see anything obvious which is catching, I would guess the rear brake may be sticking on slightly, so try pulling the brake arm on the rear hub back towards the back of the bike by hand ( the bit the cable goes into) and then turn the wheel again to see if the noise stops.
Make sure the bike is switched off when you are turning the wheel or pulling on the arm for safety, and dont touch the rear brake lever again until you have checked to see if the wheel turns better.
Do that and then post back with the outcome.August 6, 2018 at 9:11 pm #6663
Ok so I think I understood what you meant. I turned the screw on the thing which attatches to the brake cable by the rear wheel. This loosened the brake which did in fact stop the noise (you could notice the noise becoming fainter with each turn of the screw. The problem now is that the back brake isn’t very tight… Also another thing the back brake lever doesn’t return to the forward position once pulled without a manual effort to put it back. The front brake just springs back as expected.
Also what do I do about the speedo cos that just sits there without responding when the bike is moving.August 6, 2018 at 9:25 pm #6664
Ok so as I suspected, the rear brake is slightly seized, here is what to do.
Loosen the ‘screw thing’ as you call it? so that you can move the arm on the brake plate forwards and backwards by hand, spray some WD40 or other release oil around the point where the arm goes into the brake plate and continue to work the arm forwards and backwards.
This should free it off, then re-adjust the brake again.
If the above doesnt work you will need to take the rear wheel out amd remove the brake plate so you can properly clean the pivot arm to stop it sticking, but try option one first.
The problem you have is simply corrosion on the spindle behind thr arm, which passes through the brake plate.
I’m guessing the odometer fault is possibly a broken inner cable, you can trst that by unscrewing it at the speedo end amd seeing if the inner cable spins when you run the motor on the stand, if it doesnt its broken, if it does spin the speedo head is broken.August 6, 2018 at 9:36 pm #6665
Cool. Appreciate the advice. I’ll try get around to this tomorrow. Thanks for using my language 😂.
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