Like all vehicles with pneumatic tyres, it is possible your E RIDER could get a puncture. If you are fortunate, this will be on the front wheel as this is easy to remove for repair (remember you fitted it when your bike arrived). However we recently had a customer with a flat rear tyre and our in house technical expert (that’s Malcolm) has put together the following detailed instructions to resolve the problem.
Repairing a rear wheel puncture
If your tyre deflates and fails to maintain pressure when inflated, you either have a puncture or a faulty valve.
You can check the valve by putting some air into the tyre and then smearing soapy water over the valve end. If bubbles come from the valve it is leaking air. Valve cores can sometimes be cleaned and will then operate correctly, but it is probably best to buy a new schrader valve core from your local cycle shop. You will also need a valve tool to remove the defective core and insert the new one. These are low cost items.
If the valve is not faulty, check the tyre externally to see if there is any damage or an object penetrating it. Mark the location of any penetrating object and remove it. The next stage, with the tyre deflated, is to use a set of tyre levers to open one side of the tyre. If you have marked the damage point, withdraw the inner tube at the correct area and examine the puncture. If it is relatively small damage the best option may be to repair the tube with a puncture repair kit.
If the damage is not repairable there is a little more work to be done. It will be necessary to remove the wheel to replace the tube and, if necessary, the tyre.
It is best to remove the rear footrest trim to give better access to the wheel nuts. Locate the plastic clamp on the right side of the wheel spindle which holds the motor cable in place. Ease it apart, using a flat head screwdriver if necessary, and store it in a safe place.
With an open ended spanner loosen the locking nuts on each side of the wheel. Next loosen the main wheel securing nuts. A brass coloured plate on each side now prevents the wheel from being removed from the frame. These must be removed with a cross head screwdriver assisted by a spanner on the hexagon head. On the left side of the wheel you need to undo the brake which is fixed to the frame by two hexagon headed bolts. Again this I done with a screwdriver and spanner.
Take the bike chain off its sprocket so that it hangs loose. Carefully observe the location of the wheel washers so that you can restore them to the correct position when you reassemble. You can now slide the wheel backwards from the frame until the left side of the spindle is clear. At this point you can remove the inner tube and/or tyre.
Having carried out the necessary repair or replacement of your tyre and tube, reassembly is by the reverse of the above procedure. When the wheel is fully in place, but not tightened, put the chain back onto its sprocket and pull the wheel until the correct tension is on the chain and the wheel is properly aligned with the bike. Tighten each wheel main nut and turn the pedals to ensure that the wheel is moving freely and straight. When this is done tighten the locking nuts and the job is complete.
You may wish to refer to the following wiki for more information:
If you do not wish to do this job yourself your local bike or motorbike shop will be able to do it. Most have reasonable prices.